Day 13 – Goodbye To Cusco

Here I sit with such mixed emotions. I am at the airport awaiting my flight from Cusco to Lima. It is so bittersweet. Leaving is hard…I have made friends, seen things that so few ever see, experienced almost a lifetime of memories in two short weeks. It is so surreal.

But getting home will be wonderful. To share all I have learned with my family, friends, and my students will keep my trip to Cusco alive and well!

I hope you have enjoyed the journey. I know I have. It was good having you along for the ride!

Until next time!

Day 12-Our Last Day Of School

Today is kind of a mixed emotion day. We went to school as always, but it is our last day of classes, so it is sad and good at the same time. For the first half of class, we watched a movie on Tupac Amaru, the last Inka king. He was drawn and quartered In la plaza de Armas in the 1760’s (don’t quote me on the date.) it was a very emotional film, and the bottom line is that you can kill the man, but you cannot kill the people and the soul. The movie is difficult to understand, but it is a great story, and I hope I can find the movie to show my students.

After that, we were presented with our certificates of achievement, in a private ceremony (just Alberto and the three viejas). We were glad, but sad at the same time. Then, Alberto took us to the cathedral for our final field trip. This cathedral is immense and intricate and exorbitant and so very Spanish! Tupac was drawn and quartered at the side of this cathedral. Very interesting. So much to see there, and no photos allowed, but I managed to sneak a few, so you can get an idea of what it’s like.

Did you know that in Cusco, they call Jesus “El Hombre del temblor”, or the man of earthquakes. In 1650 there was a massive earthquake here that shook the Spanish. Then in 1950 there was another terrible one. Everything “non-Inka” was destroyed in each one. The Inka really knew how to make buildings last . Very interesting. I still don’t get how they knew what they knew, but it’s cool all the same.

Anyway, after the field trip, we had to say goodbye to Alberto. We were all quiet. We had established a sort of family-type relationship with him, and it was so hard to say goodbye, but we all exchanged hugs and emails so we should be able to keep in touch.

We then returned home for my last “Sonia lunch”. She has got to be the best cook in the world. Just incredible. Corn soup, stuffed potato thing, rice and salad, just exquisite.

After lunch, we, las viejas, headed out for our last minute shopping spree. So much to have, nothing needed, but it’s all good. We ended up at this nice little restaurant for our farewell dinner. We reflected on our trip…it was unanimous that we all loved Machu Picchu the best, second came our cooking class. Third is a toss-up…between the dog gangs we see every day (all the pooches live on the street but take care of each other…it is uncanny) and the game of “Frogger” we play daily to cross the streets. We have seen so much, experienced so much…ATE so much. It is just a wonderful experience. I have learned so much, am in awe of so much, and have gained yet more respect for South America…this has been one of the hallmarks in my life and I shall never forget it as long as I shall live…which may be a while now as I’m leaving Cusco traffic behind!

My cab comes at 6:30 am tomorrow to take me to the airport. That will come early and this will become a great memory.

Maria said at lunch today that we always have a place to call home in Cusco. I was so touched.

So much in my mind…such cold fingers to type. I will never be able to express in words what an Impact this experience has had on me. Great memories, new friends, and interesting facts and ideas to discuss with friends, family, and classes.

Tomorrow I say goodbye to Cusco, but I hope it is not forever. Off to Lima for one more day of fact-finding and Latin American influence, then it’s homeward bound. Can’t wait to get in my own house…

Day 11 – Maras and Moray

During class today we went through some more culture things, like holidays and such. It was so interesting. We have the tooth fairy, peruanos have “The Rat” who comes to take your teeth and leave a token of some sort. They have several very interesting myths and legends, and one other “creature” who is scary and abducts people and drains them of their fat, then sells the fat to cosmetic companies. That is incredible, but they all believe it’s true!

We also talked about Peru’s last president, Fujimori, who is on jail now for about 40 years for a great plan that went bad. The Peruanos believe that Fujimori single handedly took out terrorism in this country, that he was a hands-on president, and that he did so much good for the country. One of his plans during the “knock out terrorism” time was to just annihilate anyone and everyone who was of a terrorist group. Well, it worked for many years, and Peru was prospering with Fujimori at the helm. But, old Fuji got some bad information. He was alerted to group meeting behind doors And was lead to believe it was a terrorist group. He got his men in order and gave the word to kill the group. The soldiers stormed the meeting and killed all involved. Later, during the investigation, Fuji found out that he had assassinated around 20 professors who had met to start a new program at the university. Therefore, he is now in jail as he gave the order to shoot. Interesting, but very sad.

We also talked about a particular festival that takes place in a town just outside of Cusco where the people dance while heading to the main square, and then enemies fist fight with a referee to clear the air about any problem that the two may have had…a stray cow, a girl, land, etc. Yes, girls fight too. It was barbaric (we watched a video).

After class was over, we came home for lunch, and then headed to Moray to see the agricultural circles that the Inka had. First, let me say that the Andes mountains are spectacular…just breathtaking. Anyway, This particular place was where the Inka “tested” the growth of many things, but primarily potatoes. The Inka had about 170 types of taters…now the peruanos have 3000 types themselves. Russia has about 7000 types of taters, and the US has about 5000. Who knew? Well, the sight was just fascinating. From the look of the circles, Melissa and I were convinced that the aliens landed their ships here to help the Inka survive! Of course you have heard that the Inka had help from the ETs of this universe!

From Moray, we traveled to Maras, which is a salt mine developed by the Inka. It was incredible. On our way to the mines, there was a funeral. I snapped a picture because I found it so interesting. I was not being disrespectful,I promise.

We returned to cusco and found a little polleria where we had pollo a la brasa, which is a broasted chicken, kind of on a spit…it was good. For those of you who know Brooks BBQ, well, that’s better chicken in my opinion!

Then, we went to the spa, showered, and here I am.

I cannot believe we have one day left. Time has flown, but it is time to head home!

Tomorrow, we are taking Alberto to Starbucks to have coffee…he has NEVER been there, so it will be an experience! Then we will go to the cathedral, and who knows what else. After class, we will do our last minute shopping and head home to pack.

Hast mañana!

Day 10 -San Blas et al!

Class was good today. We sat in the sun because for once it was nice out. I was frozen to the bone because we still have no hot water in the house. And, although it was warmer today, I was so cold still, that Alberto kept class outside and he even gave las viejas blankets. He takes such good care of us! After the break, we went to San Blas. Now, it’s near Saqsayhuaman and we thought we were taking a cab, but NO! Alberto is used to these hills and such…we are not. We walked through little towns to get high atop the mountain and into the town of San Blas. It was spectacular…very similar to Cusco, but in San Blas, the artisans have their shops and are very hands on! It was lovely. We didn’t get to go into the cathedral there but we saw many wonderful little sites. Very much worth the trip!

After class, we went home for lunch. It was 10 degrees colder in the house than outside! Sherrie and I went to a spa today to take a shower. Best $7 I ever spent. I wish I had known about this place last week. For the first time since getting to cusco, I feel clean!
I believe I stood in the hottest water I could Stand for about 45 minutes! Delightful!

After that, I found a locutorios and called home. It is so good to hear the voices of my family.

We picked up Melissa at school, and there is a fourth to our group. Bob, from Arizona, just arrived. He’s probably about 65 or so, so we are now the viejos when he is with us. We trotted off to the statue of Pachacutec, the most important of all Inka kings. It was a great little museum and a huge statue! there were two very important things in this museum:
1. When the folks were putting the golden breastplate on Pachacutec in October, 1992, out of nowhere came three lightening bolts…remember, lightening is one of the revered powers of the Inka. Then, in December while dedicating the statue, a triple rainbow appeared over the city, and three eagles flew over the statue. Cool, huh?
2. Pachacutec has relatives that are alive today! I think that is so very, very cool!

After spending a little time in the museum, we decided we had to get some dinner. We trusted a man in the Pachacutec museum who told us of this great restaurant in the Plaza de Tupaq Amaru. We went by cab.

Now, it is important that you remember that we know nothing about this place and it’s restaurants. The place this guy sent us to was “on the square, can’t miss it” but he couldn’t remember the name. Well, the place is called DONKEYS and it seems to be the Peruvian equivalent of Chucky Cheese. But, for just under $25, four of us ate like kings! That’s $25 total, not each. An interesting thing about Donkeys is that you can get a pizza cone for 5 soles, that’s about $1.75. Nifty, right?

Now, I am home, a bit chilly, but ready to call it a night. Its so hard to believe that I leave in two days. I just cannot believe how quickly the time has gone by.

Hasta mañana!

Day 9 – Part II – I CAN COOK!

Tonight we took our cooking class. It was a blast. We made pisco sours (the way I learned in Lima was tastier than tonight’s, but still Delish!). Then we made corn soup, but not like we have in the US. Then the main dish of lomo saltado, which literally translates to “jumped tenderloin”. May I say, I CAN COOK!

First, we went to the market to get all of the ingredients we needed. So fresh, it makes a big difference. Then, back to the cooking school to prepare. I have to tell you, it was easy and FUN! We had a great night. The food was exquisite. The company was wonderful, and our teachers were a riot…both young girls but oh so talented.

This ranks up there among my most favorite things I have done here in Peru. Just plain wonderful!

Tomorrow, Alberto is taking us to San Blas. Should be a blast!

Time is winding down. I am sad, but oh so glad!

Hasta mañana!

Day 9-Pisac and More

We went back to Pisac today with Alberto. The religious ceremony was in full swing by the time we got there. First, we saw the mass…well, part of it. It lasts for about four hours. The ceremony is for the Virgin Mary. She is called La Virgen del Carmen here. The reason the festival is biggest in Pisac is because when the spanish came here back in the 1500s, they brought the statue of the virgin Mary and put it in this particular church. So, this is considered her “home” in Peru. The people come from all parts to be a part of this ceremony. they learn dances, they wear costumes. It is a big to-do! It’s really a testament to a mixed culture, because the costumes are indigenous and they make fun of the Spanish, but at the same time, they are practicing catholics!

Each costume represents a group of indigenous folks…whether they be from the jungle, the edge of the jungle, the mountains, the valleys, or the coast. All are so proud of their heritage. You cannot just join to be a dancer…it’s like a secret society. You have to have someone already on the “inside” recommend you, and then you are only a helper for a few years, and then you can learn the dances. It’s incredible.

After the mass, the people parade with the statue of the virgin through the streets. Each group does their dances. Then, each group has a place to rest ( a home that will care for them for the entire week) and after an hour, they come back to the square and dance, sing, and party for 5 days. The beer runs free for the week!

During the parade, they carry the icon of the virgin through the streets. The Inka used to parade their mummies through the streets.
After the parade, they drink beer. The Inka used to drink Chicha, a white lightening sort of corn mash burn your face off stuff!

I love the way that the original customs are maintained but the new things are infused.

We also walked around a bit and saw the preparations for the fiesta. They were cooking a few pigs for the celebration, and the guinea pig houses Wes open and the poor things were being roasted. Yes, it’s a big deal here. It’s called cuy. I tried it. Tastes like chicken, but tougher. Enough said!

Later tonight is our cooking class. That should be great. I am really looking forward to that. Assuming there is Internet, I’ll post about it when I get home!

Day 8 – Part II

Shopping here is Chevere, (cool), but every store and every stand has the same stuff…just a different person to barter with. Of course, we had a blast doing all of that. I did manage to spend a few dollars…but not much. I am an expert barterer, evidently!

We walked for what seemed like miles trying to find just the right such-and-such for our friends and family. Of course, just about one block from our school there was this tiny hole in the wall, and like all vendors, this guy said “adelante”, and we of course entered. This little hole in the wall rapidly turned into a giant hole in the wall with everything you can possibly imagine made of wool, alpaca, and baby alpaca (the finest). Needless to say, the three of us were in shopper’s paradise. Enough said!

We then went to La Plaza de las Armas for a little dinner. We went to a fun little place and had peruvian pizza. It was not bad at all, and I enjoyed our rest.

Have I mentioned the crazy traffic here? To give you a idea of what happens, think of the game “Frogger”. When crossing the street you have to dodge traffic…remember, they don’t stay in their lanes nor do they obey speed limits. In fact, we have determined that the street signage is just a suggestion…one that no one cares about! So when we cross the street, we have to buzz, dodge, scoot, and of course jump to make it alive. Today, I did it like a true champ, and when I got to the other side of the street, I yelled to Melissa and Sherrie “YO SOY CUSQUENA” which means “I am a Cusco girl!” In fact, when we cross the streets, we are all reminded of that Seinfeld episode when George buys the Frogger arcade game and tries to move it to his apartment, and has to cross the street in truer Frogger fashion. Too funny.

We just got home and I washed my hair in the 20second hot water. Again, I am a CUSQUENA! Sonia, our maid, did our laundry today. Sherrie and I went on the roof terrace to collect our stuff…it was still wet (sun dryer here. No machine dryer!). So our Jammies are still wet (remember, it rained today) as are most of our clothes. Talk about cultural differences…but we viejas are doing well considering the trials put before us! It is all a part of this magnificent adventure, and as we say every day…LA ADVENTURA SIGUE (the adventure continues).

So, now I am warm in my alpaca socks, my new pants I bought today, and a flannel shirt I brought with me, and of course, my alpaca gloves. A good night’s rest and all will be good.

I am having the time of my life…but I miss my sons, my hubby, and my pup.

Tomorrow, off to Pisac again with Alberto for the festival.

Stay tuned. Hasta mañana!

Day 8 – SHOPPING DAY!!! Part I

Ok, class this morning was great. The viejas are exhausted from our weekend of traipsing around the Inka ruins of Peru, and Alberto figured it out quickly…plus it is cold and rainy (light rain, but rain all the same) today…so, Alberto held class in front of the little wood stove, and gave the viejas blankets. Then they brought out the tea, AND a bottle of wine to warm the soul. We didn’t partake of the wine (we are all so tired) but the tea was magnifico!

We talked about all of the things we saw on our weekend jaunt. He is so knowledgeable about this stuff…too bad he wasn’t with us when we were traveling. He is just the best tour guide.

Tomorrow he is taking us back to Pisac so we can see the festival. He was as sad as we were that we missed it on Sunday. So, we are going there tomorrow to experience it. Hope it doesn’t rain!

Alberto told s about this market that is all black market goods…he said that these things are half of the price as a normal store. When we got back for lunch today, we asked Alexandra, our housemate from SUNY Geneseo if she had gone. She said it was a most magnificent place to go, and she showed us a pair of leather boots (just adorable) that she paid $20 for…oh yeah, we are going! We will also go to the market that is all artisan stuff…that’s my kind of place. Love the pottery and the clothing and such.

I will write more about the shopping after it happens…in the meantime. I think it is time for a nap!

More to come!

Day 7 – Sunday in the Sacred Valley

Up at the crack of dawn, again! Today, we went to The Sacred Valley. What an adventure again! First we were to be met by the tour guide at 7:50, and as all are in Peru, she was late. Then, we had to pick up other people for the tour…we were finally on our way at about 9:15. Now, that wouldn’t be terrible, but with so much to see, time is of particular importance. About an hour later, we were in Pisac. We went to a small market (everyone has the same treasures…it’s all a matter of bargaining!). We were set loose for only 30 minutes. I was very disappointed that we did not see the festivities. Because we were late, we missed the festival of St.. Carmen. The indigenous people come down from the mountains and sing and dance. We were too late.

We then went to Pisaca. This was an agricultural site for the Inka. It was amazing. People say to me “you’ve seen one pyramid, you’ve seen ’em all”. Au contraire mes Amis. The Inka didn’t have pyramids like the aztec or the maya…they had palaces and temples…totally different from what I know of pre-columbian civilizations.anyway, there I was, climbing up a out 2,000 feet to see this magnificent agricultural complex. Just brings me to tears…and not just because of the beauty. I have climbed more and walked on so much rock in the past week, it’s just amazing. What I wouldn’t give for some grass or carpet!

We then went to Urumbama for lunch at this Inka restaurant. I had guinea pig. Is a staple here. I didn’t order it…it was part if the buffet, and one must try EVERYTHING when one travels. How else would you know if you do like or dislike something?

Next came what we call “O-Town” as we have trouble with the Quechua words. The title is Oyllantaytambo. Say that three times fast! It was amazing. Another stronghold for the Inka! About an hour by bus from lunch. I walked 280 steps straight up…but never reached the top. Sorry, I was just too out of breath. O-Town is at a out 13,000 above sea level, and don’t think that doesn’t play a part in breathing! The most incredible part of O town was that most of the agriculture here was in the form of storage, for other Inka passing through, or for the village itself. In the photos, there is a picture of the storage units, across the mountaintop on the next mountain. They did this for the different wind currents. Some of the Levels got colder winds or stronger winds than others. So, different things were stored at different levels and different buildings. Just ingenious.

Finally was Chinchero (which can translate into “pig farmer”). This was by far the neatest stop today because the women are indigenous and are authentic. They gave us a weaving lesson…from combing and washing and dying the wools (sheep, llama, alpaca) to weaving and having the final product. Soooooo amazing what these women do.

I bought a pair of alpaca socks and gloves. I have the socks on and have the gloves ready to go when I turn the computer off!

It was a great day all in All, but I am exhausted…I seem to be saying that a lot these days!

Class tomorrow but this week they are in the morning…lots of things planned because it is our last week…can you believe it?

Hasta mañana!

Day 6 and what a day it is!

Day 6 – All I Can Say is WOW!

we set our alarm to get up so we could watch the sunrise from atop the mountain, but oh well, we didn’t make that. We were so tired after the harrowing trip up here yesterday that we just thought sleeping in would be so much more important. I am so glad we did, because when we finally did make the hike up to Machu Picchu, we needed reserved energy. All I can say is WOW. When we started the climb, which feels like you are going straight up, we were winded, hot and just plain awe-struck. We sat for a bit on one of the terraces which was an agricultural area and just looked around. We were laughing at each other because we took dozens of pictures of the same thing, only because we couldn’t believe our eyes. I actually teared up, unable to believe that little old me was here among such grandeur, such a sacred spot. It looks just like the pictures in the books, but it is so much better in person. With every staircase, every path, every climb and descent, we were just more and more in awe of this most wonderful place. We went into every room, every staircase, each hallway, each passage, everything, nothing was left unexplored. With each step we were more and more awestruck at the great talent and even greater genius of these people. In my life, this experience has to be among the greatest ever. I wish my brother could be here, but I know he will make it one of these days. It’s always been a dream of his!

Now, we are sitting at Aguas Calientes enjoying some tapas and a coke, waiting for the train to take us back to Cusco. I’m not looking forward to the train ride, and less to the bus ride, but it’s all good.

I will post pictures when I can.

Tomorrow is the Sacred Valley. I don’t know what can compare to MP, but I am very excited to see that, too!

Hasta mañana!